his will be the longest we are staying in a single place since we began traveling a year ago,” Nicky says. Wow, that’s amazing. We have on average only stayed at a spot for 3 to 5 days. The fact that we are staying 12 days at Fairways Resort at the Drakensberg Gardens Hotel in the Southern Berg is itself testimony to what we think of this place. It is one of our favourite places in the Berg…South Africa…the world? It’s not just the majestic mountains that jab awe-inspiringly upward at the sky above, led by Rhino Peak, but it’s the walks, river swims, heated pools, cycles, bowls…and much more and you don’t get into your car once. Today we decide to do the Beacon walk. The walk lazily meanders along the river before turning past an abandoned house and then making itself known with a short, steep climb. Thankfully with a name like “Beacon walk” this is expected. Soon however we are strolling along the top of the hill enjoying the lovely views of the hotel and timeshare below us. As we are walking back we notice someone headed towards the animal enclosure with bottles of milk. We join her, knowing it must be time to feed the new lambs that were recently brought here. Over the years the animal enclosure has brought great fun to our family as the kids have held and fed goats, rabbits, guinea pigs etc. “Here hold this bottle and you can feed Milkshake,” Thobi says. Soon the little lamb is enthusiastically sucking on the warm milk. However the friendly goats in the enclosure are not to be ignored. “Are you coming for some milk too?” Thobi asks the small two-week old goat that has come to investigate what is going on. “His name is Peaches, her mother is Pooey, and that is SpongeBob,” Thobi says pointing at the rather portly dad. We can see Thobi’s obvious affection and bond for all the animals as she talks to them like her children. With hands wet with milk and shoelaces slightly chewed from friendly goats we head back to our cottage. It's time for one of my best life experiences - a braai outside our cottage enjoying the majestic view. The smell of braaing beef patties and wors mingles with the grassy taste of a Sauvignon Blanc, overlaid with the spectacular vista of the Southern Berg. I might think it a dream if it weren't for the taste of the requisite piece of sample wors in my hand. Delicious! A thick mist has descended into the valley covering everything in a soft white blanket. “Let's go to the spa,” Hannah suggests. I look outside and think about the inviting warm pools and Jacuzzis at the Wellness Center. Moments later we are off. After a short stroll in a surreal, mist-shrouded world, we find ourselves floating in yet another world. We start off with a swim in the indoor heated hydro pool, luxuriating under the waterfall and powerful jets. “How about we sit in the jacuzzi?” Nicky suggests. So we make a quick dash to the jacuzzi outside from where we can enjoy the misty views of the mountains across the lake. After several hours of hydrotherapy we finish off our experience with the triple S - Sauna - Steam Room - Shower. I feel squeaky clean and thoroughly relaxed as we stroll sedately back home. “There really is no other word for this place - Bliss,” I think to myself as I snuggle into my bed after a hearty dinner finished off with a mint cream that was delivered magically by someone who also turned down our beds. This is the best of the berg! We wake to a bright sun painting the valley in rich shades of green, and decide a run is on the cards. Our route takes us along the bike track that meanders past the mirror-like dam, before we turn and come down the road next to the river. There are few places that offer such incredible places to cycle and run. Later, as thoughts of lunch hit our radar we decide to go with a picnic option, even though the weather has turned slightly ominous. That’s the Berg – always changing. It’s what makes it so exciting. We stroll to Hippo Pools, one of our favourite river swim spots. There may be no hippos here, but there are full on views and a guaranteed refreshing experience in crystal water. We enjoy our rolls but are furtively watching the dark clouds being driven across the steely grey sky by the wind. The kids decide that caution is the better part of valor and leap on their bikes and head home. Nicky and I saunter back sucking the marrow out of life. Indeed the promised weather does arrive - and soon tiny balls of ice are being hurled at us from above as be protect ourselves with the chairs we are carrying. This is living! We make it back before the storm really unleashes a volley of rain and hail, temporarily transforming the green valley into a white wonderland. However, white soon gives way to green once more as the sun reappears and the dramatic colours of a setting sun paint the sky a riot of majestic reds and oranges and pinks. The hotel offers a buffet dinner, and tonight we are going to go and try it. It’s a short stroll on a beautiful evening to the hotel. Inside there is already a buzz of activity as the sounds of diners chatting mingles with tantalizing smells and the visual feast of the buffet. Hmm, where to start? Soup…muscles…salads…? Simple, I'll just do them all. And so with carefully honed skills, from years of experience, I navigate my way through a hearty soup, a delicious fish starter and a refreshing salad ensemble. I hope I've calculated right because the roasts and other hot foods look and smell delicious. But with practiced aplomb I am able to sample the succulent chicken, the mint flavored lamb, golden crispy potatoes, and an array of delicious vegetables…and of course being a Durbs boy, I can't resist some beef curry on the side. The food is delicious and I'm impressed by how friendly the chef and serving staff are. In fact that is something that has really stood out on our stay. We are always greeted by the staff with friendly smiles wherever we encounter them - at a restaurant, walking on the road or in the animal enclosure. After enjoying the “Drakensberg Choir” of local staff singing I have one more pleasant challenge ahead of me - the desert. So many delicious choices, It's not easy, but we manage. As we stroll back, the road is lit by the dappled light of the moon as it scuttles in and out behind the clouds. It’s the perfect end to a delicious meal. A perfect end to a wonderful day. I'm convinced, Fairways - it is the fairest of them all!
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Finally it's a sunny day - I would never have thought I would start with those words. There was a time when we would say, "wow, look a cloud." We are currently at one of our favourite spots in the Berg - Southern Berg, Drakensberg Gardens. The last few days have been fresh, but today the majestic golden orb shines majestically into this special valley.
We are headed to Underberg to replenish supplies and check out the area a little. "I want us to pop into this coffee shop," Nicky says as we arrive at a sign on the road from Drakensberg Gardens that says "The Olde Duck". On our travels we love exploring and discovering new places. We've been staying at Drakensberg Gardens resort for many years but we have never been to this coffee shop. I suppose it's due to a combo of two things. Firstly, our "coffee snob" issue - we can't handle bad coffee. Secondly, our suspicion about coffee shops tucked into the back rooms of farms. Hey, but we enjoy adventure. So it is that to our tyres crunch along the gravel road as we drive towards the coffee shop. I'm surprised to see a couple of other cars parked here. It's a Monday. It's a little coffee shop on a farm road. They have customers...why? I'm about to discover. "Let's pop into this shop first," Nicky says as her voice trails after her vanishing form. The Vanilla Rose is a gift shop next door to the coffee shop. It's not your typical farm store shop, with a few preserves and pickled onions on wooden shelves. Whoever put this shop together certainly has style. It's full of gifts, tasteful decor items, clothes and other accessories. However...I'm bored in 2 minutes. It's not my kind of shop - where's that coffee shop. I'm feeling a lot more optimistic. As we enter the Olde Duck my anticipation begins to rise. The same tasteful decor welcomes us into the warm interior where the sound of a crackling fire mingles with the chatter of patrons and the tantalizing smell of coffee in the air. We are ushered in with a friendly welcome to our table by Di. We sit at a table near the huge glass windows that afford us views of the green fields, awash in the golden glow of the morning sun, stretching towards the magnificent mountains in the distance. "So how's your coffee?" I ask Di. It's our standard question, although I'm not sure why we ask it. Everyone always answers, "great!" - yet few are. Normally I look to see what their coffee machine looks like, and then I ask to meet the barrister so I can ask them a few questions. Our motto is simple - "If in doubt have tea." However my trepidation is about to vanish. "We just won second place in the Top 100 coffee shops for Pietermaritzburg and the Midlands," Di says proudly pointing at the new award hanging on the wall. Now I'm getting excited. However we have been to places that have won awards and not been impressed. After all, every coffee is a single work - and if the barrister is off his or her game or it's another barrister, it's just not the same. It's then that we get to meet Siya, the barrister. He beaming with pride about their win and I can already sense that he loves what he does. That's a good sign. And I'm about to discover why he looks so proud. "I learned most of what I know from watching YouTube videos and then practicing," he says. Wow, that is impressive. It's time to taste what he can do. Soon the welcome hiss of Flat Whites being crafted fills the air as we wait in eager anticipation. Moments later our carrot cakes are delivered followed by four works of art. Wow! Without taking a sip I can normally predict if the flat white will be good. This is looking fantastic. The foam looks dense, the cup size is perfect and the temperature feels just right. What's really amazing are the four animals perfectly painted atop our coffees in the foam - an elephant, beer, pig and rabbit. Flavor, smooth, rich, explosion. That's what the first sip is. I've found one of the best flat whites I've ever had. Accompanied by a delicious, moist carrot cake, stunning views, and warm atmosphere we've stumbled upon the secret of the Berg, and I can't wait to come back again. It just shows, you never know what might lie at the end of a little farm road. Sometimes the planets align and blessings truly do abound. Nicky and I have been invited to visit the Oyster Box, which recently was awarded second place in the Condé Nast Traveler Readers Choice Awards of the top Hotels in Africa. To say that we’re excited is an understatement. We’re like kids headed to a chocolate factory. The weather has turned cold and a wind is gusting like a crazed banshee as we make our way towards Umhlanga. "Check in, there's a check in," the guard who has warmly welcomed us calls ahead on his radio. After entering through the boom we are directed to stop in front of the hotel lobby where a porter takes our bags, a driver takes our car, and a doorman welcomes us with a beaming smile. “Meow.” Even the famed Oyster Box cat Skabenga is there giving us his regal, if not somewhat dismissive, welcome. I look around to see if Zuma's cavalcade has arrived. But it turns out this welcome is for us. Now I know how those politicians and famous people feel. Maybe I should get into politics or dig up a long lost royal lineage. I’m enjoying this. Entering through the doors is like stepping into another world. Outside the wind is gusting and dark, foreboding clouds are rolling across the sky. Inside there is quietness, warmth...and the royal welcome continues. “Good afternoon,” Zanele says at the reception, “and welcome to The Oyster Box,” she says while beaming a huge smile at us. We have traveled extensively, we’ve stayed in everything from a sleeping bag on the dusty desert sand to a king-sized bed laid out beneath a canopy of stars. And in all these experiences there is one thing that is more important than anything else, and that is the people who make these special places happen. Sure the setting, facilities, and views are important, but all of these are nothing if the hospitality is not there. We’re getting bucket-loads of hospitality…not just service, hospitality…that authentic, meaningful service...and we’re still only at the checkin counter sipping a glass of sparkling wine. “The best is yet to come,” as they say in the classics! “Could I show you around the hotel,” Zanele asks. “Sure,” we reply. Why not have the royal tour too. And so we find ourselves soaking up the amazing, regal spaces of The Oyster Box. It feels like Back to the Future. We’ve stepped back in time…Pith-helmeted footman open doors and usher us into glass elevators. Slowly turning fans from a long-past colonial era lazily stir the air, while live piano music mingles with the clink of glasses and the smell of fresh coffee and baked treats. We’ve stepped forward in time...Plastic cards grant us access to our room. Inside are luxurious, high-backed chairs, flat-screen TVs and vast ceiling to floor sliding glass doors. The sea is in our room. “Let’s go and get some pre-dinner drinks,” Nicky suggests after we’ve settled into our room. We head up to the famous Lighthouse Bar where Basil brings us two draft beers and a delicious selection of snacks. We're seated on luxury leather chairs and the bright red shiny leather seats interspersed with old style brown leather chairs mingle to create a vibrant yet relaxing atmosphere. Outside the wind howls while the lighthouse's light stabs out into the ocean to warn the ships of the rocks…or is it possibly to invite them to this pearl on the rocks. The Lighthouse Bar must be one of the best places in KZN to enjoy sundowner drinks. And judging from how full it is on a Monday night, it seems like the word is out. After mentally preparing ourselves for what we have heard is a gastronomical feast, we head down to the Ocean Terrace room to taste the famous Oyster Box curry buffet. The world-class hospitality continues as we are welcomed by the hostess, and then treated royally by the waitrons. We are seated beneath slowly turning fans on white cane furniture made luxurious by the addition of comfy aqua blue cushions. The white lattice roof and pillars, and tiled floor, create a fresh and inviting ambiance…but who has time for ambiance when a buffet of KZNs finest curries await. I need to make a confession now…Being born and bred in KZN, curry is my thing. It’s my food of choice. My dying-wish meal. I can’t last more than a week without curry. In fact when we travel to other countries we often bring our own Durbs spices with us. And so I am in keen anticipation of this feast. The spread of curries is distressing! Simply because there are so many and I’m cursing I ate those snacks in the Lighthouse Bar. I should of fasted for at least a day in preparation. Chicken and Prawn Curry, Butternut, Chickpea and Feta Curry, Butter Chicken Curry, Lamb Curry, Dhal & Brinjal Curry, Beef Vindaloo…and on and on the list goes. I can hear the “Hallelujah Chorus” playing. Heaven! A spicy heaven! As I tuck into my groaning plate I am not disappointed. The flavours are spectacular. My favourite is the Beef Vindaloo, with its rich spicy flavour, and soft succulent beef chunks. It’s an explosion of vibrant tastes that warms the body and soul. “The secret is in where you get your spices,” Robert the chef tells me as I try and learn some tips. “We only buy ours from places that produce quality spices.” I’m distracted as he goes into detail…you can’t have a conversation between two people when there is a pot of delicious curry between you. I’m stuffed…but there’s always room in the reserve stomach for one more portion. Satiated, and with a curry-induced glow of contentment around me, we head upstairs to check out the Oyster Box’s private cinema. An approximately 20-seater movie theatre set beneath a star-lit ceiling welcomes us. We are the only guests, and snuggled beneath warm, soft blankets and sipping a decadent hot chocolate we enjoy our private cinema experience. “That feeling of being someone famous, a movie star, a king…I’m starting to believe it!” I think to myself as I slip into the silky soft embrace of our king size bed. Tonight I will no doubt have royal dreams. Waking to the sound of the ocean is a treat. Waking to the sound of the ocean in the Oyster Box is treatment. I've purposefully left the shutters open causing the soft early morning light to paint the room golden. “They have a coffee machine,” I say while dancing a morning jig. What more could we ask for as we sip a fresh espresso appreciating the full, rich, spectacular experience - not of the coffee, well that too - but of the view from our room. "Welcome I'm Jonathan," the waiter introduces himself as we arrive at the Ocean Terrace for breakfast. "I have a special table for you in my section." Aah, the special treatment continues! "Can I explain the breakfast to you?" he asks. And with our acquiesce he enthusiastically describes our gastronomical options. "This is the cold section," he says pointing to a colorful array of fruits, cereals, pastries, cheeses, oysters…yes oysters!...and more. It looks like it should be in an art exhibition as the carvings, colors and creative displays tantalizingly draw one in. "And this is where you can choose a main meal," Jonathan continues. Once more we are regaled with a list of choices. I didn't realize eggs could be done in so many ways. Seated at our table sipping a cappuccino, we do our best to be worthy of the tantalising options before us. The quiet chatter of a few other diners who are here mingles with the music and the sounds of the sea outside. The Oyster Box… “Well,” I think to myself, “Now I know how a pearl feels…it feels great!” Some of the Oyster Box's well-deserved 2015 Awards... Condé Nast Traveler Readers Choice Awards - Voted No. 2 in the Top 25 Hotels in Africa (2015) TripAdvisor: Hall of Fame - Certificate of Excellence (2015) TripAdvisor Travellers Choice Awards: Voted Number 3 Best Hotel in South Africa (2015) TripAdvisor Travellers Choice Awards: Voted Number 6 Best Hotel in Africa (2015) TripAdvisor Travellers Choice Awards: Voted Number 13 Luxury Hotel in South Africa (2015) TripAdvisor Travellers Choice Awards: Voted Number 14 Best Service in South Africa (2015) World Luxury Spa Awards: Voted Best Luxury Hotel Spa in South Africa (2015) To find out more about The Oyster Box, and experience the ultimate in hospitality
click here! Our travels are not only about the places we visit but the adventures that can be experienced. And so we've been up-close and personal with elephants, kissed a hippo, battled giant spiders, slept under the stars, paraglided off mountains, rafted rapids, skied snow-clad Africa slopes, canoed with hippos, swum with crocs...so of course we need to party with the monkeys next! And what better place to do it than with Drakensberg Canopy Tours situated next to the Drakensberg Sun hotel in the central berg. “Hi, I'm Shonta. Welcome to our canopy tour.” We're seated outside under a huge tree around which the center has been built. We're watching a video of the adventure that lies ahead. The adventures depart every 30 minutes which must be a logistical feat in itself. The Drakensberg Canopy Tour has 12 rides that fly high above the trees of the ancient Nkwanke Forest, part of a world heritage site. “The forest has many old Yellowwood trees," Shonta says, "and you will get to stand on top of some of them.” I can feel the excitement rising as we see and hear more about what we can expect. I feel like a kid staring at cookie jar. Let's do this! “You can go through to meet your guides,” Shonta says, and we move to another room. Here we’re introduced to Moses our lead guide and the “Safety Officer” Sindi. Being led by Moses on an adventure like this seems fitting - who better to lead us through the parting of trees. Safety is high on the agenda here, which considering we're going to be connected by a few wires high in the air sounds like a great idea to me. Soon we are decked out in our high-tech diapers, and ready to go and find adventure. “Sanitize your hands,” Moses says as he gives us our “braking gloves”. Now that's attention to detail - important details - why share bugs just because you’re sharing fun? We climb onto the back of a bakkie and are bouncing our way up the mountain. Spectacular views of the central Berg open before us as we climb higher and higher along the gravel track up the mountain. “That's Barry's grave,” Moses says pointing to a grave as we disembark. “Eish! Is Barry someone who didn't make it through the adventure?” It turns out he was a dude from long ago - not a canopy tour casualty. This all adds to the anticipation of what lies ahead. As we descend into the thick forest that rises from the valley below I imagine I can almost hear Indiana Jones music playing. Well, that's at least how I feel. Like some intrepid explorer about to walk across swaying bridges and slide along vines through trees. OK, hopefully, cable vines! “Canopy tours started in Costa Rica to study forest animals,“ Moses says as we walk into the forest. In fact, I noticed a board as we were getting kitted out, listing all the animals people had seen on their adventures. I can already hear a symphony of bird life in the trees all about us. We arrive at the first platform. It’s just a short ride to get us used to the idea of flying through trees. “It’s called the Rabbit Hole,” Moses says referring to Alice’s experience. This is where our world will change as we enter another world. Sindi clips us on and on and on…OK, this does feel safe. “You’re always clipped on twice,” she explains, plus there are various backup ropes and cables. I think you have more chance of dying being attacked by a swarm of angry butterflies…maybe that’s what happened to Barry? “Look mom, I’m flying,” I shout as I glide effortlessly along the first ride. Maybe I didn’t say that out loud, but I still feel like I’m flying. I’m ready for the real deal now…Bring on the long rides! As you complete the ride you are immediately clipped to a safety cable as you move along the platforms high in the trees. “Now this is what I’m talking about,” I say as I look at a long cable stretching out into the distance over the trees far below. The views are amazing. It’s a totally different perspective being so high up in the canopy of the trees. “We call this one the Black Ferrari,” Sindi says, “because it's the fastest ride.” Now I’m sure I can hear that Indiana Jones theme song. The adventure is here. I watch as my family one by one leap off the edge of a platform suspended high above the forest floor, and whiz at high speed, with hoots of glee, along the line. After a signal from Moses it’s my turn. I lift my feet and I’m off. Boom! It’s an adrenalin hit. An epic feeling as you literally feel like you are flying and a blur of green races past beneath you. “Hey, but what about stopping? Eish, I should of asked about that earlier…too late now…” Actually, this is the best part of these rides. Stopping is easy. You have a glove that you press down lightly on the cable and you come to an easy stop. However, to make this even safer many of the rides have, as Sindi calls it, “ABS…You don’t have to do anything. Just hold on and enjoy the ride. I will stop you at the end.” As I come hurtling along at what feels like the speed of sound, the platform on the other side approaches quickly. Here’s to testing the ABS system. Amazingly in seconds I come to a sudden halt as I land featherlike on the next platform, a look of exhilaration plastered across my face. “This is the Morris Minor, short and fast….this is the Red Ferrari, the second fastest…this is a 360 year old Yellowwood…” And so it is not only that we are having an exhilarating experience, but our guides are making sure we learn new things, and have lots of laughs too. “OK,” Sindi says as we stand at the edge of another ride. Lift your feet and don’t sway,” she says as we look out at the cable vanishing between a rock face on the left and trees on the right. “Otherwise you will do bushmen paintings on the rock and then on the tree and arrive looking like braai meat!” Well, who wouldn’t look forward to a ride after that. With pumping heart, I fly across the canyon and through the gap - not doing any painting with my body en route, nor arriving like braai meat. From the longest ride at 170m in length to the second highest ride in Africa at 65m high, the experience is a green blur of excitement, interspersed with incredible tranquility and stunning views as we move along walkways attached to cliff faces and around ancient trees. It’s all over too quickly, well that’s how it feels. Actually we’ve been out here nearly 3 hours, but as the old saying goes, “time flies when you’re having fun” which means that time really flies when you’re having flying fun! It’s a short hike out of the canyon and like clockwork we’re picked up by the bakkie and whisked back down to the mountain. Hey, but it’s not over! As we watch a video of our adventure that a dexterous camera man took during our adventure, we are served a most delicious subway-style lunch. What an amazing way to end an amazing adventure. Actually, this is better than Indiana Jones…at the end of his adventures he’s the one getting eaten. |
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